Fashion - In a Geographical Sense
We were assigned a Geography project where we had to study something of our interest in 5 different parts of the world. I have a huge interest in fashion so I am going to be looking at fashion in New York, London, Milan, and finally Paris. I will be investigating how the geographical positioning of those cities has an effect on the growth of the fashion industry and the general fashion style in each city.
Here we go...
New York
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New York, New York - so nice you say it twice! The Big Apple! Some people even call it the hub of the entire world. It is renowned as one of the world's biggest shopping destinations and attracts over 47 million tourists per year. Famous fashion stores include Henri Bendel, Bloomingdales and Bergdorfs. If your budget is a little bit smaller than the millionaires who shop daily at those stores you can hit up Abercrombie & Fitch, Macys or Forever 21.
The fashion industry in New York generates over $14 billion annually.
The Growth of Fashion
New York quickly developed as a hub for commerce and remains possibly the busiest city in the world. This world of business has had an impact on the growth of fashion in New York.
New York is recognised as the fashion capital of the US and this is largely due to the Garment District located in a borough of New York. It is generally considered to lie between Fifth Avenue and Ninth Avenue. The Garment District has been known since the early 20th century as the center for fashion manufacturing and fashion design in the United States, and even the world. It was once originally the centre for clothing manufacturing but designer stores, warehouses, manufacturers and showrooms are all found in this district today.
New York City launched its first ever fashion week on July 20, 1943.
It wasn't called Fashion Week at first. It began as “Press Week”. Even though it was in the middle of World War II, the city’s clothing manufacturers and designers felt it was their duty to produce the latest fashions. Black, grey and beige were popular colours—not because they were elegant, but because they didn't use up precious and rare dyes. The garments shown during the week lacked the branding which is imminent in the world of fashion today. Back then, it was more common to brand the clothes with the name of the manufacturer rather than the designer. By the third fashion week, the dress industry of New York was estimated to be worth over $1 billion.
Women we're liberated during the war as it became acceptable to wear trousers and if was no longer uncommon for a woman to be working.
Fashion has always had a huge significance in society.
New York quickly developed as a hub for commerce and remains possibly the busiest city in the world. This world of business has had an impact on the growth of fashion in New York.
New York is recognised as the fashion capital of the US and this is largely due to the Garment District located in a borough of New York. It is generally considered to lie between Fifth Avenue and Ninth Avenue. The Garment District has been known since the early 20th century as the center for fashion manufacturing and fashion design in the United States, and even the world. It was once originally the centre for clothing manufacturing but designer stores, warehouses, manufacturers and showrooms are all found in this district today.
New York City launched its first ever fashion week on July 20, 1943.
It wasn't called Fashion Week at first. It began as “Press Week”. Even though it was in the middle of World War II, the city’s clothing manufacturers and designers felt it was their duty to produce the latest fashions. Black, grey and beige were popular colours—not because they were elegant, but because they didn't use up precious and rare dyes. The garments shown during the week lacked the branding which is imminent in the world of fashion today. Back then, it was more common to brand the clothes with the name of the manufacturer rather than the designer. By the third fashion week, the dress industry of New York was estimated to be worth over $1 billion.Fashion has always had a huge significance in society.
Typical 1940's Clothing (source)
New York Style
New York experiences a humid continental climate which means that summers are humid and warm whilst winters can be bitterly cold. The weather has a huge impact on the general style of New Yorkers.
Heavy coats, knee length pencil skirts, tights and tailored skinny trousers are staple items during the chilly Autumn/Winter (a/w) months. On the other hand, during the warm Spring/Summer (s/s) months, short, colourful dresses and skirts, slinky tops and sophisticated shorts are seen on the streets.
I have chosen 4 different designers to examine in relation to New York style: Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Calvin Klein and Rodarte.
New York is all about business and this reflects in the tailored and clean-cut clothing that the designers produce bi-annually. Well-fitting (almost suit-like) clothing with an unique edge is the general description of fashion in New York - a mixture of high fashion and office wear.
Marc Jacobs s/s 2012
Conservative but with a
bright pop of colour.
Proenza Schouler a/w 2009
The acidic neons add a punk vibe to a classic skirt and
shirt combo.
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Calvin Klein a/w 2010
A well-cut and timeless
coat necessary for the
cold weather with an
individual bubble shape.
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Rodarte s/s 2009
A fresh, feminine dress
with an angular cut.
Perfect for summer.
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That sums up my study of the impact that New York's geographical position has on the style and growth of the fashion industry in the city.
On to the next destination...
London
London calling! Personally, it is one of my favourite cities in the world. Another major fashion city renowned for its individuality and high style. Londoners have always gone against the grain and this fact is obvious by the style which major London fashion houses churn out bi-annually. Small scale markets such as Dover Market are a treasure trove for cheap unique items. Or you could spend the afternoon soaking up couture pieces at Selfridges and Harvey Nichols. Either way, wherever you go in London, fashion will be incredible.
The Growth of Fashion
Dating back to the Georgian era, style in London has been of the utmost importance. Especially when it came to how society perceived you. For the wealthy, the best time of year was the 'London Season' - a time between late January and early July when balls, dances and theater outings were frequent. It was the perfect opportunity to arrange marriages. A daily highlight of the London Season was the time between half past four and seven thirty known as ‘the Fashionable Hour’. London's aristocrats paraded around Hyde Park, greeting friends, flirting and generally showing off their exquisite clothes. Fashion was essential in displaying wealth. In the Georgian period, no wig was too high or too heavily powdered. Fine silk brocades, lace, and high heels – even for the men – were a must!
London is known internationally as the birthplace of 'punk'. 1970's Britain was in tatters due to high unemployment and a poor economy. Teenagers were restless and bored. During the summer of 1976, Vivienne Westwood and her boyfriend Malcolm McLaren ran a shop named 'SEX' which sold fishnet tights, PVC dresses, bondage trousers, studded clothing and slashed t-shirts with loud slogans. This "in-your-face" look became know as 'punk'. It tapped into the teenage angst of the era and became very popular but, unfortunately, was a short lived cultural phenomenon. 1984 marked the beginning of London Fashion Week (LFW). Icons such as Betty Jackson and the great John Galliano had their debut at LFW. It began in an West London car park and continued to boom and prosper until the 90's when the recession meant only a small amount of designers could parade their looks on the cat walk. The in 1993, LFW reignited its spark and hasn't stopped growing since. Nowadays there are 50+ shows throughout the week. In 2010, LFW celebrated its 25th anniversary.
London Style
London experiences a oceanic climate which means rainy winters. Seeing as it is a bustling city with a population of almost 8 million, it is a sufferer of the 'urban heat effect' which leads to hot, dry summers.
Rain jackets are important during those showery Autumn/Winter months in London. But in the Spring/Summer, short, girly dresses are perfectly suited to the stuffy heat.
Due to is rich history of aristocracy and London's ever-present monarchy, feminine pieces are always evident in every fashion week. But, these feminine collections consistently have a edgy and individual flair - playing tribute to London's 'punk' era.
I have to decided to look at four well-known designers in order to display London Style: Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Jonathan Saunders and Burberry.
Christopher Kane s/s 2012
A short, fresh summer
dress with a very
individual floral design
Rain jackets are important during those showery Autumn/Winter months in London. But in the Spring/Summer, short, girly dresses are perfectly suited to the stuffy heat.
Due to is rich history of aristocracy and London's ever-present monarchy, feminine pieces are always evident in every fashion week. But, these feminine collections consistently have a edgy and individual flair - playing tribute to London's 'punk' era.
I have to decided to look at four well-known designers in order to display London Style: Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Jonathan Saunders and Burberry.
A short, fresh summer
dress with a very
individual floral design
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Peter Pilotto a/w 2009
Layers of patterned
jackets are ideal for
the wet winter months
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Jonathan Saunders s/s 2011A feminine summer dress
in a neutral colour with
a pop of bright stripes.
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Burberry a/w 2012An striking blue
winter coat
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This concludes my research of London's growth of fashion and style.
Next up is Milan...
Milan
The fashion capital of Italy has always been a very industrialised city and this has reflected in the style and growth of fashion in Milan. The entire urban area is the 5th largest in the EU which means the people are all business. The slick and sophisticated city churns out contemporary 'office' looks at every fashion week to cater for the vast workforce in Milan. It is the industrial center of Italy and became the country's post-war capital of design and architecture. This mirrors in the structured clothing produced there. Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Versace (along with many other fashion powerhouses) have their headquarters in Milan. source
Growth of Fashion
Although fashion in Italy dates back to the 11th century, a well known Italian Count's fashion show for an international audience in 1951 marked the advent of Italian fashion in a real sense.
| Giovanni Battista Giorgini showcased Italian fashion to the world, and was met with an immediate success. Since then, Rome, Milan, and Florence have dominated Italian fashion and are known as Italy's fashion capitals. During the 60s, the idea of conventional fashion changed dramatically. Dresses became a symbol of creation and design. The conventional dresses paved way for new styles, both in manufacturing and designs. Clothes became an instrumental tool in determining the class of a person. Influenced by 'avant-garde' and other cultural movements in the twentieth century, Italian fashion stood out from its counterparts in Paris, London, and New York. It was during this time that well known Italian Fashion Designers like Giorgio Armani, Roberto Capucci, and Gianfranco Ferre came to be known to the world with their exquisite designs that revolutionized the fashion industry. |
Until 1970s Italian fashion was designed for the wealthy and popular masses. During the 1970s-80s, Florence was replaced as the fashion capital by Milan. It saw the coming of three new labels, Versace, Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana. Fashion was redefined again, and this time, it was aimed at the common man and woman and ready-to-wear clothes. With the resounding success of these ready to wear designs Milan gained acceptance as a fashion landmark of the world. With a string of successful Italian fashion designers like Ottavio Missoni, Emilio Pucci, and Ermenegildo Zegna joining the league of the already established designers, Italy became another Fashion Capital of the world.
Versace in the 1980's
Milan Style
Milan is an industrial city steeped in rich history - obvious from its famous cathedral. This has lead the clothing of the city to be well tailored for office wear but highly ornate and made of luxurious fabrics.
Milan has a humid subtropical climate which means it experiences hot, humid summers and cool winters. The people of the city love expensive clothing that shows some skin so they can keep cool. Bi-annually, Fashion Week produces highly decorated and structured clothing. I have chosen to examine 4 of Milan's top designers - Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Prada and Giorgio Armani.
Milan has a humid subtropical climate which means it experiences hot, humid summers and cool winters. The people of the city love expensive clothing that shows some skin so they can keep cool. Bi-annually, Fashion Week produces highly decorated and structured clothing. I have chosen to examine 4 of Milan's top designers - Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Prada and Giorgio Armani.
Dolce & Gabbana s/s 2012
A bright, fun and flirty dress
which shows plenty of skin for
those humid summer months
Versace a/w 2010
A luxurious fur
gilet in a very loud
royal blue.
Prada s/s 2011
A shocking unique
banana print green
and yellow suit.
Giorgio Armani a/w 2011
Rich silk dress with an
ornate headdress capturing
the luxuriousness of
Milan.
Milan.
I have finished my study of the impact that Milan's geographical positioning has on the style and growth of fashion in the city.
Up next is Paris.
Paris
"Paris holds the key to your heart". The city of love is also the place to go if you're searching for beautiful fashion. Paris is known around the world as the birthplace of fashion and haute couture. For years, the people of the world looked to the city for style ideas.Fashion trends began in Paris and didn't spread to other areas for months. For high-end stores like Yves Saint Laurent and Hermes hit up the Faubourg Saint-Honoré but if you're pocket is a bit tighter one of Paris' numerous department stores such as Lafayettes or Le Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville is perfect for you! Time to take a closer look at the hearth of fashion. source
Growth of Fashion
As I've already said, Paris is known internationally as the true home of fashion. It dates back to the 17th century when France was ruled under monarchy. These aristocrats were one of the first people to place an importance on dress and fashion style as a sign of wealth amongst the court. Marie Antoinette paved the way for luxurious and extravagant clothing. The concept of fashion "seasons" and changing styles/trends also began around this time.
After the revolution, ostentatious dressing was frowned upon so a simple 'Neoclassical' look came into style. From this, department stores were established. Next came haute couture. The first modern couturier was Charles Frederick Worth. He opened his 'House of Worth' in 1858. Worth dominated the world of haute couture for over 30 years. Worth invented the fashion show, the designer-as-celebrity (clothing-makers had previously been considered lowly artisans), and the fashion label as a status symbol. Designers such as Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel liberated women in the early 20th century by designing clothing without constricting corsets and a masculine edge. They broke down society walls and revolutionised modern fashion.
But when World War II came around, Paris fashion suffered. There were strict rations on clothing fabric and dyes and many of the fashion houses decided to clothes. People all over the world wondered whether the city would survive as the hub of fashion. But Paris pulled through and Christian Dior produced a bombshell of collection in 1947. Dior's famous "New Look" collection featured cinched in waists and voluptuous skirts. This re-established Paris as the international centre of fashion. Yves Saint Laurent dominated the later half of the 20th century. He launched his pret-a-porter (ready-to-wear) collection which mass produced clothing for daytime and marketed it to the average people of Paris.Since then, Paris has gone from strength to strength and fashion week never disappoints.
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Paris Style
Paris debuts some of the most coveted collections bi-annually at fashion week. The city upholds it's prestigious reputation as the city of fashion by churning out exquisite and other-worldly styles at fashion week. Due to its rich history in couture clothing you can be assured that Paris will produce high fashion and completely off the wall collections.
The city experiences an oceanic climate which affected by the North Atlantic Current. This leads to the city being mild and moderately wet. Layering is key when staying in Paris but you must always look chic. I am going to be looking at 4 of Paris' most important and influential designers - Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin.
Coco Chanel s/s 2011
Essential layering of
Chanel's famous tweed
jacket.
This concludes my project on 'Fashion in a Geographical Sense'.
I have learned a lot from my investigation and I hope you enjoyed reading everything that I discovered!
SOURCES:
'100 Ideas That Changed Fashion' - Harriet Worsley
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